Portugal’s Spectacular Atlantic Coast

/Portugal’s Spectacular Atlantic Coast

Portugal’s Spectacular Atlantic Coast

 

Leaving Lisbon and Sintra behind, we jumped on the motorway and headed back down south as fast as Romy could take us. Our intention was to follow the Atlantic coast from Cabo de Sao Vicente–the most western point on the European continent–as far north as we could manage before commitments would pull us away and back into central Europe.  That is exactly what we did, and we found that coastline to be among the most beautiful we had ever experienced.  A big part of that coast  is entirely within the Parque Natural Da Costa Vicentina, a huge national park that crawls inland for at least ten miles for most of its length.  There are occasional small fishing villages scattered along its water’s edge and connected for over two hundred miles by a nearly continuous hiking trail called the Roto Vincentina.  Most of the park is dense pine forest down to spectacular bluffs overlooking the turbulent, violent Atlantic Ocean below.  The fishing continues,  as this old timer exemplifies, not far north of the Cape itself and from perhaps three or four hundred feet above the surf.

Cape, Portugal

So much of this coast is high bluffs with beautiful and nearly deserted beaches sprinkled in its path. Here is a very typical view as we free camped along its length.  Note the fisherman, and that white blob in the distance is Romy after a dreamy night of sleep with the sound of the sea.

Portugal Coastline

In addition to the spectacular beauty of the sea, the color of the bluffs themselves were lovely, shading through blue to yellow to even orange and always with the turquoise of the sea pounding below.

DSC04285

Did you notice the storks sitting in their huge nests and perched high above the sea?  No?  Here’s a view that makes spotting them a little easier.

DSC04294

While most nights were spent camping for free high on a bluff somewhere along the coast, we did also venture into town occasionally and spent a couple of nights in Foz do Arelho, situated beside not only the sea but a lovely lagoon that reaches inland.  Both have beaches lined with lovely walkways,

Foz de A, Portugal

and drew quite a crowd of other camper vans to the lagoon side, bathed in sunset and ready for the night.

Foz de A, Portugal_2

The sunsets were just so spectacular no matter where we were.  Every night was a light show which stretched across the whole of the horizon, and always changing, evolving.

IMG_8643

Costa de Santo Andre, Portugal

Now we don’t want you to think that all we did was lounge around on the coast soaking up sun and sunsets.  We did venture into some pretty spectacular cities, to which Aviero is testament.  Situated south of Porto and in the midst of a series of coastal lagoons, it had a long history as a major port until its river silted up, and then later became the focus of huge salt flats and kelp fields.  The salt and kelp were harvested and brought to town in the sort of boat you see at the top of this posting. In those days, however, they were without the colorful decorations which adorn them today as they ply the river and canals, their cargo now visitors enjoying this lovely town.

Aveiro, Portugal_3

Dave had his own particular favorite and insisted on riding in it.

Aveiro, Portugal

And like a number of other cities sprinkled across Europe, Aviero has many buildings in the Art Nouveau style.  The Tourist Information Office is in a particularly fine example, and its front door is elegant in that curvilinear, yet uncluttered style.

Aviero, Portugal

Leaving Aviero behind we traveled north to Portugal’s second largest city, Porto.  Famous for the after dinner wine that takes its name from this city, it has been since Roman times a major trading center.  It lies at the mouth of the Rio Douro, long famous for its serpentine beauty and the grapes which seem to grow everywhere along its sides.   Like so many European cities, Porto climbs a hill with a cathedral on top. Working class apartments are close to the river, and the more spectacular and splendorous structures appear as you progress upwards. Most were built as the homes of rich merchants from prior centuries.

Porto, Portugal

Like so much of Portugal, it is home to many azulejos, the fabulous ceramic tile walls seen everywhere.  Much of the style evolved from the 16th century going forward, particularly when an Italian technique made it possible to paint whole images onto the tiles without fear of it running when applied.  Thus the best of them are grand scenes, often religious or historic, as is true in the train station in Porto.

Porto, Portugal

Train Station, Porto, Portugal

In spite of the hustle and bustle of the city, even on a Tuesday there was time–and space–to stretch out on some green grass and grab some sunshine.

Porto, Portugal_2

We also heard a lot about the beauty of the Rio Duoro and drove a good part of its length on a narrow, twisting road which follows high on its shoulders.

Duoro River, Portugal_2

Finally leaving Portugal–very reluctantly, we might add–we continued north back into Spain, and went first to Santiago de Compostela, that famous pilgrimage site, then on to Santander and San Sebastian before diving south to the small town of Espinal where we managed to meet up with our friends Mike and Terri Church.  They are friends from Mexico days and are famous for their many camping guides, particularly for Alaska, the Pacific Northwest, Europe and Mexico.  The latter is the absolute bible of camping in Mexico and was our daily bread for years before we finally met them in the campground in San Miguel de Allende.

Terri and Mike were walking the Camino de Santiago, the long, arduous and historic foot trail which has for centuries been a pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, that almost holy city in the northwest of Spain.

Along the Santiago, Spain_2

They had been walking for a couple of weeks in France and had just crossed into Spain several days before we met up with them, yet still had about 450 miles to Santiago.  When we saw them, they were walking about ten or twelve miles a day and stopping at night in hostels and inns which are in each village specifically for pilgrims.  Near the end they were doing eighteen to twenty miles a day, and enjoyed it so much that they went on beyond Santiago to the sea out of the pure joy of walking.  We had breakfast with them before they set off again.

Along the Santiago, Spain

Heading north as we were, we had the Pyrenees mountains between us and the rest of Europe, so on the advice of nephew Eric, we spent a couple of days driving through and enjoying them–much grander than we had anticipated and still covered with snow in early May.

Along the Pyrannes, Spain

Along the Pyrannes, Spain_2

This path also led us through Andorra, a mini country which straddles the Pyrenees and is renowned as a trading center if nothing else.  Possessing almost no charm, wedged between mountains in a narrow canyon, and awash with cigarette and liquor stores, it is the kind of place one imagines arms deals being negotiated.

Along the Pyrannes, Spain_3

We happily escaped it the next morning and found ourselves plunging down the northern slopes of the Pyrenees and again in France.

Along the Pyrannes, Spain_4

We had lots of road ahead of us as our plans were to meet grandson Cameron in Prague and then friends Jeanne and Tony in Norway, and we only had three weeks to make it!
Hungary to see a few more photos? Just click on the photo below!

Beaches, Sunsets, Cities, Food, Portugal

2019-01-02T21:10:10-06:00September 17th, 2017|Categories: Andorra, Portugal, Spain|

8 Comments

  1. jeanne September 17, 2017 at 9:05 am - Reply

    Another round of fascinating travel news and great pictures. Thanks for sharing!!!!

    • bonsternm September 17, 2017 at 9:16 am - Reply

      Thanks, Jeanne. Next one will be on our trip to Norway with you and Tony last June! OXXO

  2. Travel with Kevin and Ruth September 17, 2017 at 9:34 am - Reply

    Beautiful drive up along the Atlantic Coast. One day we did a day trip just north of Sagres and hiked a beautiful trail along the rugged coast which came out to a beautiful huge sandy beach. We really enjoyed that day and the rocky coastline.

    So glad that you got to meet up with Mike and Teri in Spain. We did the same thing in Spain with another couple that we met in Mexico which is quite funny when you think about it. Enjoying your pictures and travels.

    Ruth

  3. ruth hack September 23, 2017 at 1:44 am - Reply

    Thank you for another exhilarating adventure. I look forward to the next. With love and wishes for safe travel, ruth

  4. Heath October 1, 2017 at 7:41 pm - Reply

    Loved this. We spent the summer of 1999 cruising from Ria de Arousa in Northwest Spain to Gib, where we wintered over the Millennium. We gunk-holed the entire coast of Portugal and occasionally rented cars to venture inland. Your wonderful photos and commentary brought back so many great memories. We look forward to seeing you in November!

    • Dave Law March 2, 2018 at 8:46 am - Reply

      Thanks Heath! See you soon!

  5. Jogi Reisinger October 11, 2017 at 5:36 am - Reply

    Hey Bonnie & Dave!
    Thanks for the fantastic reports about Portugal and Spain in winter! We’re just in the beginning of our winter tour 17/18, visiting places you have been last winter. Too bad we are a few months behind you, otherwise it would have been fun to meet you again somewhere on the road.
    Our plan is, to surround the iberian peninsula counterclockwise.
    All the best to you, looking forward to read more of your impressive travelogues.
    Jogi & Bettina

    • Dave Law February 6, 2018 at 7:47 am - Reply

      If you are really in Spain and Portugal this winter, where are you and where are you headed?? We will be into Madrid by the 22nd of February but will be in S and P until at least mid April. Want to see you again!

Leave A Comment

Our Countries

News Subscription